Monthly Archives: May 2012

Hard Times (I)

It’s nine months to the day since I started this adventure, and I find myself in Kashgar, China’s westernmost city, at the end of the Karakorum Highway. For years it’s been my dream to ride this road, and climb the 4695m Khunjerab Pass, and I’m still not quite sure how to feel now that I’ve […]

Leave a Comment

The Karakorum Dirt Track

Those who know me well will be aware of my obsession with good tarmac, and will understand how delighted I was to discover that the Chinese (some of Pakistan’s more benevolent foreign string-pullers) are busy resurfacing the KKH, so that it looks like this. You will also share my dismay on discovering that this resurfacing […]

Leave a Comment

Grounded in Gilgit

A few hours after I arrived in Gilgit I was taken ill. It was nothing serious –  just a splitting headache, a sore throat and a fever – but it was deeply annoying. I had hoped to be back on the bike the next day, finally, after all these weeks of sitting around, launching myself […]

Leave a Comment

A school for change

Just after we descended from Sri Paye, a cool 2962m above sea level, and the highest any of us had even been, Mum and Dad and I were accosted by the owner of the endearingly dilapidated resort we were staying in, sat down and given a cup of tea. Since 9/11, foreign tourists in Pakistan […]

Leave a Comment

A reassuring update

Since I posted last night, I’ve received a great deal of sound advice and wisdom from a great many people. (Thank you.) And perhaps I should have realized that, after all I said about Kohistan, no one was going to say anything other than ‘take the bus!’, for fear of being the one who sent […]

Leave a Comment

Indecision

Last night’s meeting with Col. Fazeel was productive and encouraging. He started off by recommending categorically that I take the bus, but during the course of the conversation, once he realized how determined I was, and how much I’ve already come through, he changed his mind completely, told me that I’d (probably) be fine to […]

Leave a Comment

The next few headaches

After three weeks in the country, my father concluded that Pakistan is a wonderful place, but it doesn’t make life very easy for the foreign traveller. And I have to agree. I’ve fallen more heartily in love with Pakistan than I have anywhere else I’ve travelled so far (although Iran and Turkey offer stiff competition), […]

Leave a Comment

Only in Pakistan

It’s been a lovely month off, but I am more than ready to be back on the road, and back on my own. It’s difficult to describe the rhythms of a trip like this to the uninitiated – or at least, they’re often surprised when I tell them that the actually cycling is by far […]

Leave a Comment