Monthly Archives: January 2012

Out Of Office

…or something like that. This time tomorrow I’ll be in Iran, and I’ve no idea how regularly or reliably I’ll be able to get online there. So if this blog dries up a bit over the next 30 days, don’t panic – I’ll see you on the other side. I doubt it will though.

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Goodbye Turkey

You could say Doğubeyazıt sits in the shadow of Mount Ararat, but you’d be more accurate to say it basks in its light. I woke up this morning surrounded by sunbeams, dancing on the walls of my poky little hotel room, glancing off the icicles and snowdrifts in the street, and pouring through the windows […]

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That Glow

A few hours ago I rolled into the frontier town of Dogubeyazit with a huge uncontrollable grin on my face, and couldn’t resist punching the air theatrically. These small moments of triumph are one of the reasons I do what I do, and – I’m sure of it – one of the reasons so many […]

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More questions

Do you reckon your feet are crustier than mine? Yes. In Iran, Pakistan and Afghanistan (if that’s on your route) – and possibly even eastern Turkey, I don’t know – how much do you intend to conform to local sensitivities by covering up? Do you think you’ll still wear shorts while out in the wilds? […]

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Icicles on my bicycle

The day I left Sivas was grey and uninspiring, with a few half-hearted snowflakes blowing around, and a thick layer of slush on the road. The temperature was hovering somewhere around zero, which meant that said slush kept melting and refreezing, turning the road into an interesting stripy pattern of snow-slush-ice-slush-ice. The going was slow […]

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The warmth of winter

After the whirl of gluttony and socializing that was Christmas, I had mixed feelings about being back on the road. It would be a relief to be back on the bike, and back to my simple, solitary existence of riding, eating and camping, without having to worry about other people’s plans and preferences. But leaving […]

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